Cotswolds

August 20, 2022

I've always wanted to visit the picturesque villages of the Cotswolds in England. It was everything I thought it would be. So, so lovely and peaceful. The name Cotswolds means rolling hills with plenty of sheep.

After a horrific night (see the end of the Stonehenge Tour to learn what happened), I hoped out of bed at 6:15am and ran to the British Museum to get picked up by the International Friends tour bus for a day tour from London. (I am not affiliated with International Friends.)

There were two other solo ladies, a bit younger than me, and a Mom and daughter. Not a huge group so we had a smaller van rather than the typical coach, which worked out well in our favor. We were able to see so much more than the average tour bus does. We really lucked out. 

The mom and daughter were late because their taxi driver dropped them off at the wrong place. Unlike the King Arthur tour from the day before, there was no ripple effect and we made good time all day. 

Our tour guide was used to working on much bigger coaches, so it was as if she was on tour as well, getting to go to little places she's never been before, thanks to our van driver who kept recommending places.

Some of the stops I don't remember the names of so just enjoy the photos! Man, we made so many stops!

The Cotswolds is so idyllic. Little quaint cottages and some grand ones! Thatched roofs. Very earthy. Streams through the villages. Foot bridges. Weeping willows. Lots of greenery. History. Zero hustle and bustle.

It's such a contrast to where I'm from. I grew up in a big city in the desert where you have to drive everywhere from one air conditioned building to the next. 

The Cotswolds is so strollable. It makes you want to be outside all the time, in summer anyway. I loved it. I highly recommend it and I'd love to go back and explore some more. I only got a taste of it. 

It would be challenging to visit by car as the villages are so small and parking is so sparse, but people do it.

Bibury

Bibury is known as the most beautiful village in England. It is quintessentially charming. It's not very big. There's not many shops or restaurants.

Arlington Row

This row of medieval stone cottages is one of the most photographed lanes in all of England. For a time, an image of this lane was inside of British passports.

This is a popular tourist destination so good luck getting a people free photo! Remember that this is not a tourist attraction, this is a real road and people actually live here! So, you know be respectful and mind the cars.

These cottages were originally a wool store built in 1380! Currently, one of the cottages is available as a vacation/holiday rental.

Fun fact: Arlington Row was featured in one of my favorite fantasy movies Stardust staring Claire Danes. 

The Swan Hotel

Burton on the Water

Burton on the Water is known as the Venice of the Cotswolds. The tranquil River Windrush, is the largest tributary that feeds into the Thames. The river's main source of water comes from springs. You can cross it using one of the several arched stone bridges. Mill Bridge, the oldest, was built in 1654. Unlike Bibury, Burton on the Water has several shops and restaurants but the river is the main attraction. Burton on the Water is a tourist hot-spot.

Lower Slaughter

Such a gorgeous place to have such a gory name. It comes from the Old English word Slohtre - which means Muddy Place. We were fortunate to have a bright sunny day so there was no mud in sight. 

Lower Slaughter is quite small and the roads are so narrow that tour buses cannot enter, plus there are no parking lots. It has been inhabited for over 1,000 years. The Doomsday Book which details land ownership, jobs, what animals people owned and what laws were in place around England in 1086, records Sclostre, as a village here with a population of 32. Now it's just over 200. 

The stone cottages are made from limestone. There has been no new building work in the village for over a century. 

The River Eye runs through the middle of Lower Slaughter. Just two narrow footbridges connect the two sides of the village together. The river separates Lower Slaughter from it's twin village Upper Slaughter, about a 30-minute walk away. 

Besides the village's unspoiled nature, the Old Mill is the main attraction. There's been a mill here since at least the writing of the Doomsday Book. The one that stands today is not the original. It's the newest building in the village while still being hundreds of years old. It's the only building made of brick. They used to ground flour here but most recently it served as a cafe and souvenir shop until 2023. Next, it may turn into a family home.

Lower Slaughter is home to Copsehill Road which was voted the most romantic street in Britain.

Old Mill

Our tour guide was particularly excited to see that breed of sheep - which I forget what kind it was, to the left of the Old Mill.

Stow-on-the-Wold

Stow-on-the-Wold is one of the Cotswolds larger towns and also sits at the highest elevation. It has a historic market square lined with old buildings, shops, and cafes. A farmers’ market is held in the square, every second Thursday of the month. It's been going on for 800 years. It's also known for it's antique shops.

The main attraction is St. Edwards church. Legend has it that J. R. R. Tolkien visited here and the entrance inspired the Doors of Durin in the Lord of the Rings. It's so cool! This is a real place! And is still a functioning church.

Remember when visiting the UK your legs are your main transportation. You can walk from here to Lower Slaughter and on to Burton on the Water. It's just over 4 miles one-way. That would take a British person like half an hour. As one tourist recently grumbled on a tour, "any time they say it takes 15 minutes it means it's 3 miles." HA! Pretty much.

Burford

Burford is known as the Gateway to the Cotswolds. Burford was one of the earliest towns to be granted a charter. Having a charter meant they could hold a market, which drew traders from all over the country. That's why Burford has so many Inns. Burford is located at one of England's major crossroads making it a frequently visited destination.

High Street is full of shops, pubs, cafes and England's oldest pharmacy/chemist which has been in operation since 1734! 

Baldon

Baldon, is a small village, best known for being the burial place of Sir Winston Churchill, and his wife, at St Martins Church. There is a small exhibition in the church and a memorial glass.

---

So many stops on this tour! Next, we visited Blenheim Palace. It's where Winston Churchill was born. You might recognize the expansive palace, as several movies and TV shows have been filmed there. It's a magnificent place. It's hard to believe that people still live there!

---